I have a Tomos Streetmate moped.
Great for getting around town. Like many mopeds, the tail light and brake light run off the unregulated voltage coming out of the alternator.
This is bad since when you are riding it is impossible to know and not having a light will make it a lot easier to get hit at night. To fix all these issues I decided to construct a custom made LED tail light. DOT rated car and motorcycle tail lights use a 21W filament for the brake light and a 5W for the tail light. Quality seemed fine, although I did resolder the LEDs onto the carrier boards. Since the LEDs are emitting only red light and the standard incandescent bulbs put out white light that is then filtered red, 18W worth of LEDs will be several times brighter than the old 21W bulb.
Since we already know the Moped power system has a highly variable voltage, it is important to drive the LEDs with a constant current supply designed for LEDs. A standard resistor will not be adequate for this application because of the high current and the variable input voltage.
The six LEDs are wired in series and with 2. After looking around a bit I decided to use an evaluation board for the Allegro A This chip is a great device, supporting buck-boost power conversion and able to drive up to 10 LEDs in series. At some point I may construct a PCB based on this board but in the mean time I plan to just tape up the eval board and stash it under my moped seat.
My original design was to make up an aluminum plate which would sit inside the factory reflector. This was WAY too hot so we scrapped it. I made up an aluminum plate. This could then be sandwiched between the factory red lens and the light cutout in the rear fender, taking the place of the factory bulb holder and reflector. The left the back of the plate exposed to air right behind the rear tire.
This looked great and mounted up perfectly to the moped! At full power the LEDs quickly got hot enough that brightness was visibly reduced. To solve this issue I cut the corners off an old AMD Athlon heat sink and bolted it to the back of the plate. This heat sink is designed to dissipate at least 50W worth of heat from a CPU albeit with a fan blowing over it constantly but seems to be enough cooling area!
This big heat sink sits in the recessed part of the plastic fender and ends up right behind the rear tire where it will get plenty of airflow and water and dirt… hopefully it will survive.
The only remaining task is to figure out how to get the tail light to vary in brightness depending on whether just the running light is on or if I am hitting the brakes. The A eval board has a potentiometer which can be turned to vary the current through the LED string up to a maximum of around 1A. It also has a spot on the board which if pulled up to 5V causes the LED to go to full brightness.
My plan was to power the eval board through two high power diodes, each hooked to the brake light line and running light line respectively. This would give the board power if either the running light or brake light was on.
I will set the potentiometer to the brightness desired for the running light. Then to increase the brightness when the brakes are hit I would run the brake light power line through another diode and a resistor.
The resistor would then end with the brightness input pin, and have a 5v zener diode running to ground. The zener will regulate the voltage to 5v down from the brake light voltage which could be fairly high. My first attempt at this failed. I used some 9A rated power diodes more than requiredbut they had such a high reverse current that the voltage from the running lights would bleed back through the brake light diode and cause the brightness to go to maximum.
I tried using two diodes in series but this was still not enough blocking. I am now waiting on some more appropriately sized diodes with less reverse leakage!
In the meantime I wired it to be powered off the running lights and to increase brightness when the brakes are pressed. You must be logged in to post a comment. Temporarily installed tail light with wiring hanging off the side.Your question may be answered by sellers, manufacturers, or customers who purchased this item, who are all part of the Amazon community. Please make sure that you are posting in the form of a question. Please enter a question. Skip to main content. Only 3 left in stock - order soon.
Moped Tail Light Assembly
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Feedback If you are a seller for this product, would you like to suggest updates through seller support?Replacement Moped Tail light Assembly for universal applications. Can be used with 6v or Orange side reflectors. Use this on Tomos, Puch, and many other mopeds.
Original CEV brand that has traveled through time. The BA20D bulb is used for the headlight and taillights of many model mopeds and motorcycles. Amber low beam, White high beam. This is a tail light so it's off or on only. Black plastic housing. Convenient screws for bulb replacement. Self grounded to the mounting bolt. Aftermarket replacement. Consider this a universal tail light. Puch Please compare to be sure this is Please compare to be sure this is what you need CEV Tail light lens for Tail light base.
CEV Italy. CEV Tail light assembly! This is the Lens with a Base. Contoured to mount onto the fender. Single filament 12v Ba9S bulb for use as only a running light.
No brake light function. No bulb included. Can be found in any auto store. Mounting surface is countoured to fit well with fenders along with the clear rubber gasket.
Deluxe LED taillight. Designed for Puch and Tomos Mopeds, but can be used on anything with a 12v system. Created with Sketch. Toggle menu. Gift Certificate Login or Sign Up 0. Crankshaft Cylinders Pistons. Speedo Drives.Scooter Parts We provide massive selection of moped scooter parts for the famous brand moped scooters, such as Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Roketa moped scooters. Voltage Regulators. Spark Plug. Chains and Sprockets.
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Yamaha Yerf-Dog Yvolution.That is because of the and US DOT motor vehicle safety requirements for motor-driven cycles and motorized bicycles. The rear light must shine to the rear and the sides, and illuminate the license plate.
The rear of the bike must have red side and rear reflectors. Putting the reflectors with the tail light eliminates the need for adding them on elsewhere. This meant that the brake light had to be powered by a separate source coil in the magneto-generator. The AC voltage was crudely regulated by generator magnetism, rather than a external mechanical or electronic device. Internal ignition ground family: Some US moped versions had an additional source coil to operate the brake light, such as Puch or Batavus Bosch magnetos.
The ignition source coil is grounded internally, inside the generator. So the ignition is never affected by any of the lights. Unlike your house, a higher wattage bulb makes less light. If a 6V 18W bulb is used, it will be dim. On these the brake light wires can cause the engine to loose spark and not run.How to Wire Motorcycle LED Lights
Removing the tail light assembly, or changing it, can cause these bikes to not run. For a brighter brake light but a weaker ignition spark, the resistor can be 6. They had internal ignition grounds. So the brake light wires never cause the engine to loose spark. The modern family also uses 12 volt bulbs instead of 6 volt.
Just like in your house, a higher wattage bulb would produce more light. Price List: Prices are for each item. Dark green means used. It was exclusively on mopeds with an external ignition ground. If the brake light burned out, the bike would loose spark when the brakes were applied. Internal ignition ground bikes did not use this lamp because it made the brake light too dim because the 10 watt generator coil did not match the 20 watt bulb filament.
At first theand If the brake light burned out, the resistor would allow the engine to stay running. The CEV1 version, 2 colors, 3 or more mounts.Customer Service. Contact Us. Shipping Policy. Warranty Policy. Easy Returns. Welcome, Guest! Log-In or Register below. Log In. Shop By Category. Mini Bike. Lift Chair. Hospital Bed. Mobility Aid. Sign In. Register Account. Mobility Scooter and Power Chair Parts. Recreational Scooter Parts.
Street Scooter Parts. Wheelchair Parts. Lift Chair Parts. Kick Scooter Parts. Tools Tubes Wheels. Mobility Aid Parts. Walker Parts. Shop By Brand. A Brands. Diggler Drive Medical Dynacraft. Falcon Fatboy Foldawheel. Freedom Freerider Fuzion. Genuine Go-Go Golden. Jazzy Jet Jetson Jonway. Lambretta LaScoota Lashout. Ninebot by Segway. Quantum Quickie. Uber Scoot UltraLite. Venom Vento Vespa. Vintage Mobility Vintage Vespa Vokul.
Wheelcare Windermere Motion.